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Ghostly spirits, buried treasure and bottomless waters.
The Isla de Janitzio (Janitzio Island) is the most significant of the five islands in Lake Pátzcuaro.
It rises like a mountain from the calm waters of one of Mexico’s highest lakes near the city of Pátzcuaro in the state of Michoacán.
While the island’s main town, also called Janitzio, has several interesting attractions, it’s best known for its rich indigenous culture and unique Day of the Dead celebrations.
Why Visit Janitzio on Día de Muertos
It’s well worth visiting Janitzio any time of year, but on Día de Muertos it’s an amazing place to be.
Over the years I’ve experienced Day of the Dead in Cancun, Patzcuaro, Morelia, Mexico City and Oaxaca City. The celebrations for Day of the Dead in Janitzio (and the villages surrounding Lake Pátzcuaro) are equally as memorable as those in Oaxaca City.
You won’t see the huge stages with theatrical and music performances by big name acts as in Oaxaca. But you will see altars, gravesite rituals, roving musicians, unique ceremonies and special Dia de Muertos food.
The celebrations are lower key but seem more authentic as they’re influenced by indigenous P’urhépecha (Purepecha) traditions and culture.
Aspects of the P’urhépecha culture, such as traditional pirekua music, have been inscribed on the List of Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.
Unique Day of the Dead Traditions in Janitzio
While the island of Janitzio is best known for its night of Day of the Dead celebrations (Noche de Muertos takes place November 1 and Dia de Muertos, Day of the Dead and All Souls Day is November 2nd.), it’s worth arriving a day or two earlier to watch the preparations.
Begin your experience by browsing the sugar skulls, altar decorations and artisans markets set up for Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro.
A short taxi ride or shuttle but away is the Muelle San Pedrito dock. This is where you take the boat to Janitzio Island.
Here you’ll likely see congregations of brass bands, roving troubadours, mariachis and an assortment of souvenir vendors.
Pro Tip: Check out our Playlist of the Best Mariachi Songs to Request if you’re thinking of requesting a song.
The most famous song for Dia de Muertos is La Llorona, the tale of the ghostly woman who mourns the death of her children.
Be sure to purchase a round-trip ticket before you board the ferry. It’s first-come, first-served for space on the wooden seats so board the boat as soon as it’s available.
Our boat was full of local Purepecha people toting la flor de Cempoalxóchitl (marigolds), cases of Coca-Cola and other supplies for Animecha Kejtzittajua or the Feast of the Souls.
History of Janitzio Island (and Pátzcuaro)
The Purhepecha settled in this region of Michoacan in the 14th century, establishing the island of Janitzio in Lake Pátzcuaro as the centre of their kingdom.
According to Purepecha legend, it was home to Mintzita, daughter of King Tzintzicha and her lover Itzihuapa, the crown prince of Janitzio.
Their romance was interrupted by the arrival of the Spanish conquerors. It’s said that their souls, along with those of 21 ghostly boatmen, still live in the shadowy blue lake, guarding a treasure of fantastic riches.
For us, there were no signs of spirits rising out of the water.
But local fishermen did appear, arriving in dugout boats. They scooped up tiny white fish, about one third the size of sardines, in their butterfly nets.
Known as the Butterfly Fishermen, they pose for photos to earn income. So be sure to tip them.
This is a new tradition as pollution in the lake has created so much algae the fish population has diminished considerably.
But there is a legend behind the Dia de Muertos ceremony of fanning the butterfly nets.
According to legend, each November 1st on the night of the Day of the Dead, the ghostly guardians beneath the lake awake to the tolling of the church bells of Janitzio.
The ghosts emerge from the waters. And, fanned by the breezes created by the fishermen’s butterfly nets, the ghosts are coaxed up the steep stairs to the cemetery.
As Colleen and I retraced the ghostly route up the slopes of Janitzio, we passed vendors selling charales or charalitos, tiny fish deep-fried, salted and served with salsa and lime.
Passers-by eat the fish whole to fuel them along the steep walk.
How many steps are in Janitzio?
It’s 365 steps to the top of Janitzio Island. While not steep the climb is a bit of a workout.
As we climbed upward, the 40-meter statue of José María Morelos, a hero of Mexico’s Independence loomed large at every bend.
The statue is one of the major attractions in Janitzio. It’s also a major landmark in Michoacan.
Another top thing to do in Janitzio is to shop for souvenirs. Between the souvenir shops you can catch glimpses of church spires, cemeteries and Lake Patzcuaro.
What to Eat in Janitzio on Day of the Dead
- pato en chile (duck in salsa),
- tamales,
- trucha (trout),
- Tarascan soup,
- tiny pescado blanco or whitefish called charalitos.
Feast of the Souls in Janitzio on Lake Patzcuaro
Looking out across the pale blue lake, it was easy to imagine the souls of the gods awakening to the sound of church bells and floating on the night mist to the cemetery.
There, they would be welcomed with candles, copal incense, elaborate altars laden with offerings of candy skulls and flowers.
These are gifts from the living to the dead for the Feast of the Souls.
Similar to All Souls Day in Guatemala where food is prepared for the departed it brings a whole new meaning to the concept of company’s coming for dinner.
Travel Tips for Lake Pátzcuaro
Tour of Janitzio and Patzcuaro
It’s also possible to take a guided Tour of Pátzcuaro and the island of Janitzio. This small group tour departs from Morelia and includes the opportunity to see the local fishermen use giant butterfly nets, a visit to the Statue of José Maria Morelos and a walking tour of historic Patzcuaro.
Check prices and availability of a Tour of Pátzcuaro and the island of Janitzio on Viator.com
Location of Isla Janitzio
The island of Janitzio is located 3 kilometres north of Pátzcuaro. There are many buses, taxis and shared mini-vans going there several times daily.
You can easily catch one near Plaza Chica beside the market.
Hotels
There’s so much to do during Day of the Dead around Pátzcuaro, I don’t recommend staying on Janitzio Island. It’s best to do a day trip and return to Pátzcuaro for the night.
We stayed at the Meson de San Antonio a historic, budget hotel located near the Day of the Dead Flower Market and the Basilica. While the rooms were a bit chilly, a wood-burning fireplace kept it cozy.
Rooms were very spacious and the hosts extremely helpful. They also had quite an elaborate home altar installed for Dia de los Muertos.
Check rates and availability at Meson de San Antonio in Patzcuaro on Booking.com.
More Day of the Dead Travel and Inspiration
Dividing her time between Canada, Guatemala and Mexico (or the nearest tropical beach), Michele Peterson is the founder of A Taste for Travel. Her award-winning travel and food writing has appeared in Lonely Planet’s cookbook Mexico: From the Source, National Geographic Traveler, Fodor’s and 100+ other publications.
Read more about Michele Peterson.
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esperanza
What fascinating history and scenery. Best seen in the glorious sunlight before the ghosties come out!
Colleen Friesen
I always learn more about a place from you even though I was there! Good research and lovely photos! Thanks for giving more depth to my experience. That was a stellar day!
Carol Perehudoff
This place sounds a bit freaky. In a good way. Gorgeous photos. Sounds like a stunning place.
Lesley Peterson
You know, I’ve heard of this place in association with DoD celebrations but had no idea there was such a spinechilling legend associated with this lovely landscape. Feast of the Souls does not sound like an event for the faint of heart:o Fascinating details, Michele.