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Mexican craft beer is on the rise and one of the newest and most exciting destinations for craft beer aficionados is the state of Oaxaca.
Recently, there’s been a surge of interest in and availability of small-batch, artisanal beer all the way from Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido and Mazunte on the Pacific Coast.
For craft beer fans like me, that’s great news!
A Short History of Beer in Mexico
Beer is one of the world’s oldest fermented beverages–some say that a hymn to the goddess of brewing was even discovered on a Sumerian clay tablet dated to 1800 BC.
French and Germans perfected those early beer making techniques of using natural ingredients of barley, yeast, water and hops up until the 12th century with the rise of brewing guilds, beer was valued as a method of avoiding health risks of drinking contaminated water.
While the tradition of beer-making in Mexico dates to 1542 when Emperor Carlos V of Spain granted permission to open a cerveceria in the Americas. Mexico quickly established a reputation as a nation of beer lovers and exporters. However, the Mexican beer industry has been dominated by two multinational corporations which produce 99% of the beer.
Big brands such as Corona, Sol and Victoria became synonymous with good times. Launched in 1925, and produced by Cervecería Modelo, Corona Extra is one of the world’s top-selling beers.
It’s a lager beer, pale in colour with a touch of sweetness and virtually no hoppiness, the ingredient that contributes to the bitter taste of beer.
Inspired by British and American craft beers and growing interest in artisanal beer worldwide, the first Mexican craft beer breweries launched in Mexico City and Monterrey in the mid 1990s.
Since 2013, following the resolution of the Federal Commission of Economic Competition (COFECE) regarding non-exclusivity in beer distribution in Mexico, the Mexican craft beer industry has exploded.
It’s becoming the world’s #1 exporter of craft beer according to a recent report by Deloitte Mexico. There’s no sign of a slowdown in growth.
Also growing is the acquisition of independent breweries by large industrial producers. Most notable was the acquisition of Cucapa, Cerveceria Tijuana, Bocanegra and the family of brands of Cerveceria Mexicana by Anheuser-Busch InBev followed by a partnership between Heineken and Primus.
Fortunately the number of new craft breweries continues to expand, as does demand for Mexican craft beer. Mexican beer micro breweries are creating exciting new products known for their nuances of flavour, unique brand identities and diversity of styles.
Mexican Craft Beer Tastings, Tours and Breweries in Oaxaca
One of the regions of Mexico experiencing an explosion of independent micro-breweries is the State of Oaxaca. I had the opportunity to explore the Oaxaca craft beer scene as part of the launch of the inaugural Spirit of Oaxaca Mexico: Mezcal & Beer Lovers’ Cultural Tour .
Led by Oliver Dawson a beer expert who established his career at The Upper Canada Brewing Co., Toronto’s original micro-brewery and Alvin Starkman, co-owner of Oaxaca Culinary Tours, the seven-day tour introduced us to mezcal, pulque (a popular fermented beverage made from agave) and cerveza artesanal artisanal beer.
We also explored special cuisine during Day of the Dead festivities and explored the tradition of temazcal ( sweat lodges) in Oaxaca City.
One of the pleasures of Mexican craft beer is the diversity of taste. During our tour, participants were tutored on the distinctive flavors of fresh, natural ingredients such as barley, wheat and hops during a special event at La Olla restaurant in Oaxaca City.
There, Chef Pilar Cabrera created a four-course menu paired with Tempus beer, Mexico’s first altbier, a traditional style German ale, brewed by Primus Brewery.
Another top spot for sampling International and Mexican craft beer in Oaxaca City include the Taberna Los Inmortales where you’ll find beer brewed everywhere from Russia to the state of Oaxaca.
You can also enjoy Mexican craft beer from The Beer Truck Company often parked along with a variety of food trucks in the San Felipe del Agua neighbourhood north of the historic centre.
By far, the largest selection of Mexican craft beers in Oaxaca City can be found at the Alhondiga Reforma Mercadito Gourmet.
Not only can you find bottled Mexican craft beer from brands such as Cerveceria Tierra Blanca, Cerveceria Calendula and Cerveceria Mula, but you can also find Alhondiga draft craft beer on tap in styles such as IPA, stout and amber.
Oaxaca’s First Micro-Brewery Teufel Cervezas Artesanales
Another of the stops along the Oaxaca beer-tasting route was at Oaxaca’s first micro-brewery, Teufel Cervezas Artesanales, perched above a lush valley in San Andres Huayapam.
Brewmaster Fernando Bolaños and his wife Fernanda Suelto spent six years in Germany honing their brewing skills.
Their ever-evolving line of award-winning beer includes Babalao a medium-bodied ancient ale featuring malted blue corn and Portfirio Porter Mezcal, definitely worth a try.
Very popular among their intriguing craft beers is Chica Mala. This Imperial Red Ale with the lovely aroma of rosita de cacao, an ingredient more typically seen in the chocolate-maize drink known as tejate.
Although demand for their beer is high, Teufel is committed to small-batch quality. If you’re in Mexico City, you can sample their beer at Pujol restaurant, a worthy food destination in its own right.
Craft Beer in Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca
Some of this fine-quality artisanal beer is now making its way to the beaches of Puerto Escondido on the coast of Oaxaca.
Unlike Playa el Carmen on the Caribbean coast where several restaurants and bars sell a wide range of International and Mexican craft beer and Puerto Vallarta where Los Muertos brewing is well-established, choices for craft beer are slimmer in Puerto Escondido.
But to the delight of craft beer fans, there’s a new micro-brewery producing quality craft beer in Oaxaca.
Biercito Brewery
This nano-brewery is a German-Mexican fusion producing four permanent styles of beer — Escondida Blonde Ale, a Mexican Pale Ale, La Alemana Hefeweizen, and the Oaxaca de Noche Stout.
It’s operated by Alex, a German expat and Adelina, a local Mexican (who also owns and operates the luxury boutique hotels Casa Lili and Quinta Lili.
The meticulous brewing techniques at Biercito Cerveza Artesanal produces a consistently high quality Mexican craft beer despite the challenges of brewing in a tropical climate.
ONE LOVE and other Hip Eateries
Now you can find many of those brands at ONE LOVE restaurant in La Punta. One Love is also home to a hostel that’s a popular place to stay in Puerto Escondido.
Almoraduz Restaurant
Other spots serving artisanal craft beer include Almoraduz Restaurant, one of Puerto Escondido’s best restaurants.
Chef Quetzalcoatl Zurita Bustamente, who is a firm proponent of locally-sourced cuisine, offers several craft beers such as Bendito, a nano-cerveceria beer (claro and oscuro) brewed in Santa Catarina Juiquila, located between Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido.
It’s an important pilgrimage site for the revered Virgin of Juiquila. Visiting the shrine is one of the top things to do in Puerto Escondido.
Craft Beer in Huatulco
Other top spots to sample craft beer in Oaxaca include Cervecería Carros Chocados and Agua Bendita Gastropub in Huatulco south of Puerto Escondido.
This casual bar-restaurant serves Oaxaqueña and Mexican cuisine along with a wide selection of Mexican craft beer, much of it from the state of Oaxaca. However, it seems they may not have survived the pandemic so double-check before visiting.
Your best bets are now Guns and Beers or La Crema Bar facing the zocolo in La Crucecita, the commercial heart of the Bahias de Huatulco resort area.
So, the next time you’re thinking of having a beer, think small (and big taste) and reach for one of the new artisanal Mexican craft beers from Oaxaca.
Learn more about what to drink in Oaxaca in A Beginner’s Guide to Mezcal.
Dividing her time between Canada, Guatemala and Mexico (or the nearest tropical beach), Michele Peterson is the founder of A Taste for Travel. Her award-winning travel and food writing has appeared in Lonely Planet’s cookbook Mexico: From the Source, National Geographic Traveler, Fodor’s and 100+ other publications.
Read more about Michele Peterson.
Michelle
Now this sounds like my kind of tour! Everyone is always drinking fancy wine when I go on group tours and I have to admit to being a beer drinker 🙂
Ursula Maxwell-Lewis
Normally, wine is my choice, but on a hot day beer is called for. Great to know craft beers are giving Corona a run for its money – and travellers an option.
Sand In My Suitcase
We’re not surprised that Mexico (and Oaxaca) are developing some great craft beers. Their Corona is a pretty good light sipping beer for the beach :-).
Raquel
Thanks for the information on the beer tour. What a wonderful way to explore the region and taste some great craf beers! I love craft beer (and tweet about it as OCBeerGal). When we went to Cabo, we were really disappointed in the beers there, but we missed these. Great article!
Wandering Carol
Beer O’clock? Too funny. I’ve always been a wine girl myself but now knowing that there is a goddess of brewing, I’m much more inclined to give craft beer more of a try.
Anita @ No Particular Place To Go
I always think of Oaxaca as a place for beautiful crafts and mole sauces but craft beer makes a terrific addition. Tasting and sampling various beers sounds like a great theme for a journey!
Linda ~ Journey Jottings
Oh!!! The look of that cold glass of beer really has got my throat wanting to gulp 😉 It looks so refreshing and delicious and the thought of that in hand while reflecting on that view over the edge of the infinity pool – I think you’ve just found heaven 🙂
Neva @ Retire for the Fun of it
I am so amazed by your photo of the natural infinity pool. That would be the ultimate beer commercial. Is this beer served at room temperature or chilled? Just curious.
The GypsyNesters
Wow! That natural infinity pool is something else! We’ve just started enjoying craft beer (I’ve never been a beer drinker, mainly because I’d never HAD good beer until lately!). What a great way to see Mexico!
Doreen Pendgracs
Oh, Michele … you’ve definitely got my mouth watering. I would love to explore the world of craft beer and the culinary scene of Oaxaca. I can hear it calling my name. I hope I will be able to answer soon …
A Cook Not Mad (nat)
Sounds like a great tour, very informative!
noel
Love those two bottles – very colorful lables. I would definitely try those out when I get a chance to visit….great post
santafetraveler
Craft beer is all over these days. Didn’t know Oaxaca had one. Beer tourism is a growing sector of travel.
Irene S. Levine
What a great post! You have given me another reason why I want to get to Oaxaca. Never heard of the beer route before.
My Mexican beer route is through the aisles at Costco during the holiday season when they sell an assortment of Mexican beers:-)
Donna Janke
I didn’t realize that there was a craft beer scene in Mexico, but considering it’s popularity in the rest of North America, it’s not surprising. Your beer tour sounds great.
Lesley Peterson
Amazing! I would never have guessed that the history of beer making in Oaxaca went back to 1542.
esperanza
It’s a long way to go for a beer but sure would be worth the trip! What a way to spend a hot day, immersed in a pool, cool beer in hand and gazing at mountains in the distance!
sarah
Very cool. Yet another reason I regret not making it to Oaxaca on our recent Mexican adventure.