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Home » Destinations » Central America » Guatemala » Tamales: the Soul of Navidad

Tamales: the Soul of Navidad

Posted December 22, 2014, Updated October 24, 2019 //  by Michele Peterson 22 Comments

We may earn income from links in this post. Please read this Disclosure for details.

In Guatemala, as well as Mexico and most other parts of Latin America, a highlight of the Christmas season of Navidad is eating tamales on Nochebuena or Christmas Eve.

While these bundles of corn (maize) filling encasing chicken or pork and wrapped in banana leaf or a corn husk are also enjoyed during many other festivals in Guatemala, they are an indispensable part of a Christmas menu during family celebrations in Guatemala.

Tamale at Navidad Guatemala celebration
Tamales are a popular food at Navidad

Each household prepares their own version — beef, chicken and pork– each corn dough tamale wrapped snugly in a banana leaf and tucked tightly into big cast iron pots over outdoor fires, which keep the tamales steaming until midnight arrives.

Making dough for tamales with Mama Tayo in San Vicente
Making dough for tamales with Mama Tayo in Guatemala

What is in a tamale?

At our family ranch  in San Vicente, Guatemala the epic cooking effort begins early in the morning when my mother-in-law Mama Tayo wakes up at dawn and begins grinding corn in the molino de maiz, a metal grinder attached to a support beam on the patio. She then adds a chunk of lard the size of a filing cabinet to the corn paste and puts in all in a large cauldron.

As the fat melts she stirs the mixture with a long wooden spoon. Beside the cauldron, balanced on an iron grate over the fire, in a battered aluminum pot, bubbles its companion, an intense dark red recado, a salsa made of ripe, charred tomatoes, chile pimiento rojo and onion. Earlier in the week she had steamed a stack of  banana leaves over an open fire in the field until the leaves were smoky soft.

There are as many varieties of tamales as there are cooks. Some tamales are stuffed with raisins, others are wrapped in Maxan leaves rather than banana leaves and tamales negros include cacao  which gives them an intense chocolate-chile flavour.

Wrapping tamales in Guatemala
Wrapping tamales in Guatemala

How to Make Traditional Tamales

By late-morning, my sister-in-laws, cousins and a bevy of other women in hairnets,  join the preparations. The patio, shaded by the blazing heat of the day, is converted into an assembly line of cocineras. Much like a symphony orchestra, there is a hierarchy of players among the cooks.

Dressed in a chef’s apron, a hair net and sturdy shoes, Mama Tayo serves as principal conductor. Playing first violin is my apron-clad sister-in-law. The rest of the cooking ensemble wear flip-flops, tank tops and hairnets and do the wrapping.

Tamales ready for the pot, Guatemala
My other sister in law and niece tote tamales to the pot

Each takes a leaf from the stack of banana leaves, places a dollop of soft dough in the middle of the leaf, tucks a piece of chicken or pork into the dough, scoops a spoonful of salsa on top and then folds their banana leaf into a square and ties it tightly with twine.

tamales in the pot Guatemala
tamales in the pot in Guatemala

My role is dish duty — the best job of all, because I’m near enough to participate in the conversation but can splash myself with cool water from the pila, an outdoor sink at the corner of the patio, whenever I get hot.

The only hazard is a large, pale fish that lives in the sink. Although the fish’s job is to devour any mosquitoes breeding in the water, the intent look in its eyes and a speed that belies its size leads me to believe it would happily gnaw on a human arm if given the opportunity.

Tia Maria tending her pot of tamales in San Vicente
Tia Maria tending her pot of tamales in San Vicente

While the assembly line is underway, Mama Tayo quietly circulates among the cooks, occasionally tightening the twine on a tamale bundle or adjusting the seasoning of the salsa.

She also tends the outdoor fire, feeding it with aged wood to produce a steady heat.  The work effort is truly epic as our family is around 100+ people and even if each person eats just a few, it adds up to 500 tamales.

My mother- in-law’s  tamales are acknowledged to be the best in San Vicente, a consequence of the special alchemy between the tenderness of the dough, the intensity of the flavourful salsa and her vigilant eye.

 

Tamale smoke around San Vicente, Guatemala
You can see the smoke rising from the tamale fires around San Vicente, Guatemala

How to Eat Tamales

When the tamales are ready, they are served at midnight on Nochebuena, Christmas Eve along with a steaming mug of ponche de frutas, hot fruit punch.

Get our easy recipe for ponche de frutas, the hot fruit punch enjoyed throughout Latin America, and try it yourself for the holidays.

How to eat a tamale
To eat a tamale, untie and open the wrapper

If you’ve never eaten a tamale it can be a bit daunting the first time. Here are a few tips on eating tamales like a pro:

  • Don’t eat the corn husk or banana leaf of a tamale. The corn husk is not edible. It should be thrown away
  • Remove the twine tying the banana leaf or corn husk package.
  • Open the leaf to reveal the masa dough inside.
  • Be careful of escaping steam…a tamale can be very hot!
  • Inside the masa is the piece of beef, pork or chicken. Watch out for bones.
  • Sprinkle with a hot sauce  such as Picamas Salsa Brava ( available in red or green) or homemade salsa.
  • Eat your tamale with a fork. This isn’t a food to be eaten by hand.

Check out our authentic recipe for Guatemalan ponche de frutas. It’s easy to make and serves a crowd.

Are Tamales Nutritious?

Tamales are a very filling, traditional food with a long history in Latin America. The combination of fat, protein and carbohydrates in a tamale serves as an important nutritional boost and source of energy, very useful for people doing physical work.

However, they are also quite high in sodium and fat. So, like any other special occasion food, they should be enjoyed in moderation as part of a healthy diet.

  • A chicken tamale has between 280-300 calories and is gluten-free.
  • If you’re looking for a vegetarian tamale, be sure to make sure it was made with vegetable shortening rather than lard.
Tamale from El Quetzal Restaurant Toronto
Tamale from El Quetzal Restaurant Toronto

Where to Find Authentic Tamales in Toronto

This year, we’re celebrating Christmas in Toronto with the Canadian side of our family and without a posse of skilled cooks to help prepare tamales, I’m on the hunt to purchase Guatemalan-style tamales. For while there are plenty of places to purchase them El Salvadoran  or Nicaraguan style, my husband is pure chapin when it comes to tamales. The best place to buy them in Toronto is at El Quetzal Bakery and Restaurant.

El Quetzal is located in a plaza at 2011 Lawrence Ave W in Toronto. Order your tamales in advance to avoid disappointment.  Their phone number is (416) 245-4982.

But no matter whether you enjoy Nacatamales from Nicaragua, tamales colorados or  tamales Oaxacaquenos, each perfectly-wrapped bundle  is a blend of food, culture and tradition. Each is a gift of love embodying the spirit of Navidad.

Travel Planner 

Guatemala: Head to Mama Lita’s, a comedor (eatery) located in San Bartolo near Antigua, where on Saturdays, a number of family-run restaurants offer authentic Guatemalan cuisine such as chile rellenos, pepian and tamales.

Culture Xplorers offers custom tours of Guatemala featuring authentic cuisine and cultural experiences. Read about my experience with Culture Xplorers in this post Dancing with the Devil during Dia del Diablo 

Toronto: El Quetzal Bakery and Restaurant in Toronto (416) 245-4982.  Note that this is NOT the same restaurant as El Quetzal on College Street. They don’t have a website.

 

Michele Peterson
Michele Peterson

Dividing her time between Canada, Guatemala and Mexico (or the nearest tropical beach), Michele Peterson is the founder of A Taste for Travel. Her award-winning travel and food writing has appeared in Lonely Planet’s cookbook Mexico: From the Source, National Geographic Traveler, Fodor’s and 100+ other publications.

Read more about Michele Peterson.

« Why You Need to Put Día del Diablo on Your Guatemala Bucket List
12 Reasons I’m Tempted to Drop Everything and Move to Grenada »

About Michele Peterson

Dividing her time between Canada, Guatemala and Mexico (or the nearest tropical beach), Michele Peterson is the founder of A Taste for Travel. Her award-winning travel and food writing has appeared in Lonely Planet’s cookbook Mexico: From the Source, National Geographic Traveler, Fodor’s and 100+ other publications.

Read more about Michele Peterson.

Previous Post: «Pinata for Quema del Diablo in Guatemala Why You Need to Put Día del Diablo on Your Guatemala Bucket List
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. alison abbott

    December 28, 2014 at 9:14 pm

    What a wonderful get together for your family. I think there is no better bonding time then a good cooking experience. i tasted my first authentic tamales in Mexico and havre been addicted ever since.
    what a perfect combination of flavors.

    Reply
  2. Lesley Peterson

    December 27, 2014 at 1:01 pm

    What a great tradition–and photos! The homemade tamales looks amazing. Would love to try one someday. I can’t believe they keep a fish in the sink, even if it’s doing a job. Eek!

    Reply
  3. A Cook Not Mad (Nat)

    December 27, 2014 at 3:20 am

    What a great tradition, I would love tamales for Christmas!

    Reply
  4. Donna Meyer

    December 26, 2014 at 11:39 pm

    I love the tamales here in central Mexico, wrapped in corn husks. But I have never had the chance to try Guatemalan tamales. After reading this delightful description of the prep, I have to add them to the list. High up the list! Thanks.

    Reply
  5. Irene S. Levine

    December 25, 2014 at 12:24 pm

    I so love your food posts. They are wonderful!
    Wishing you a wonderful holiday season.
    xo
    Irene

    Reply
  6. Cheryl

    December 24, 2014 at 1:05 pm

    I’ve had tamales once and they were soooo good! What a wonderful way to spend time with your family and enjoy the Christmas spirit. Have a wonderful holiday!! 🙂

    Reply
  7. Wandering Carol

    December 24, 2014 at 7:26 am

    What an adorable post! This to me is the true spirit of Christmas.

    Reply
  8. Anita @ No Particular Place To Go

    December 24, 2014 at 6:56 am

    We spent six months in Guatemala, a lot of it in Antigua and were in San Bartolo a couple of times, once to watch their fantastic Semana Santa Procession. We love the Guatemalan dishes of pepian and tamales but I had no idea that so much work (and love) went into these tasyty little bundles! Thanks for sharing your family tradition.

    Reply
  9. Karen Warren

    December 24, 2014 at 4:07 am

    I’ve never had tamales but they sound lovely. It is great to have a tradition like this that you can follow wherever you are.

    Reply
  10. Jen

    December 24, 2014 at 2:09 am

    Oh my god, this is the best description of life!! Tamales are wonderful

    Reply
  11. Sand In My Suitcase

    December 23, 2014 at 7:02 pm

    Wow! Tamales look like a lot of work to make :-). Hope you find the tamales in Toronto that remind you of your home-made Guatamelan ones. And all the best for a very happy holiday!

    Reply
  12. yaneth Sanchez

    December 23, 2014 at 11:20 am

    Es una tradición en nuestro país Guatemala especialmente en San Vicente y son una delicia los tamales.. especialmente en Navidad… Bendiciones para todo .. Feliz Navidad y prospero Año Nuevo…

    Reply
  13. Don Rogers

    December 23, 2014 at 9:38 am

    Wow, what a great family tradition and you’re so lucky to be able to share it with
    your Guatemalan family. Thanks for sharing the tradition with us as well.

    We were fortunate to share tamales here in Pto Escondido last year with our friends….I have to find out from whom they were purchased……as I recall it was somebody’s grandmother. I suppose this is an old culinary tradition as most restaurants don’t offer them. Feliz Navidad.

    Reply
    • Michele Peterson

      December 29, 2014 at 7:46 am

      Don..I hope you were able to track down some tamales in Puerto Escondido! Hotel Flor de Maria often has them on special occasions. Felix Navidad y Prospero Ano Nuevo to you and your family!

  14. The GypsyNesters

    December 22, 2014 at 10:15 pm

    I grew up with tamale parties every year at Christmas time in Southern California. Always a great time. Got to do one with old friends when we were back there a couple of years ago too.

    Reply
  15. Ursula Maxwell-Lewis (@YouTravel)

    December 22, 2014 at 9:58 pm

    I know I’d live Christmas tamales… but, I’m not so sure about that fish! 🙂 A wonderful peek into a very different, and heartwarming, Christmas. Thank you for sharing it. Feliz Navidad!

    Reply
  16. tomaso

    December 22, 2014 at 6:15 pm

    A heart-warming picture of family togetherness blended with traditional culinary gusto. Up North could you use canola instead of lard?

    Reply
  17. Leigh

    December 22, 2014 at 6:14 pm

    Love how involved everyone is in making so many tamales. That would be a sight to behold. Great story and best of luck with finding just the right tamales in Toronto. Maybe ask the question on twitter?

    Reply
  18. esperanza

    December 22, 2014 at 6:12 pm

    How lovely that the whole family can get together to make and enjoy those delicious tamales, a wonderful tradition!

    Reply
  19. santafetravler

    December 22, 2014 at 6:06 pm

    Love tamales! They are a big part of the Christmas tradition in Santa Fe but are mostly made from pork, chicken or beef and wrapped in corn husks.

    Reply
  20. Betsy Wuebker | PassingThru

    December 22, 2014 at 5:57 pm

    Wow! 500 tamales! My husband would think he died and went to heaven if he managed to snag an invitation to your Christmas dinner! I hope the ones you find in Toronto are up to par. Merry Christmas!

    Reply
  21. noel

    December 22, 2014 at 4:58 pm

    What a wonderful way to celebrate with the entire family gathering to share in the making of this dish. It’s great these traditions are still passed on.

    Reply

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Michele Peterson in Tuscany Italy Credit Insight Vacations.

Hi, I'm Michele! Welcome to A Taste for Travel, one of the world’s top culinary travel blogs, welcoming over 1.5 million readers annually! 

Along with a team of expert travel writers, enthusiastic eaters and skilled photographers, we help readers plan incredible adventures and make delicious global recipes at home.

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